Bonjour mes amis…as you can no doubt guess we are here in St Aygulf for our annual April visit and we are enjoying it very much, but it is not as warm or as dry as we had hoped for. We are still managing to do lots of stuff though and we have now spent a good three weeks relaxing and pottering about. Unfortunately, we have not done a lot of swimming though…it is a bit chilly and the sea is definitely not warm! I am getting ahead of myself though so let’s go back to the start of the month, when we were still in Carlisle.
The first week of April passed by quite quickly, as we got things sorted ready for our departure for France. Geoff was not feeling too good at the beginning of the week, but rallied enough for us to go out for lunch on the Wednesday as usual. We tried a new venue this time…The Duke of Cumberland in Castle Currock…and wondered why we hadn’t been there before now as the food & the place were really lovely. It has now been added to our list for a return visit! The weather (which unfortunately looks like being a dominant topic throughout this blog post) was not behaving at all and we were really looking forward to departing for France and hopefully some warmer days. Geoff was hoping to get Hazel’s lawn cut before we left, but as it resembled a small pond in places that was never going to happen ☹
We left on the 9th April, catching the train as usual to Edinburgh and with me wearing my usual travelling footwear of sandals, which were looking a little silly in the rain! The train was delayed for almost an hour (due to the weather) but this was not a problem as we had left plenty of time to get to the airport…where our plane was also delayed by an hour and a half. Consequently, it was quite late by the time we got to Nice. However, it was nice to feel some warmth as we got off the plane and headed across the road to the hotel, where we spent the night. The next day we headed back to the airport where we caught the bus along to Frejus…and guess what? That was also delayed, due to a bad accident on the autoroute (quickly cleared as is the French way of keeping the roads open) and we arrived at the flat a bit later than planned but we were not really bothered by that. The flat was OK and happily there was no signs of any more damage from the leak. We did a bit of emergency shopping and then had a little walk to inspect the sea as is our habit!
That first week here passed with us doing very little really. We did have a couple of visits to the beach and even managed a very quick swim…but the water was really cold. Geoff was braver than me and did return for a couple of dips but I wasn’t tempted! Geoff also spent some time sorting out all the inspections we needed to have done to sort out this blessed leak. I am always so pleased he speaks good French! The first of these inspections (for the buildings agency) happened on the Thursday and was quick and efficient…apart from the fact that the guy couldn’t access the roof where he thought the problem lies. The second one was organised by our insurance company (AXA) and again was very efficient. This guy arrived on his motorbike (he reckoned it was easier to dodge the traffic problems here on that) and he brought a drone (exciting or what??) which took photos of the roof joint which is where both guys think there is a problem. We think now that our part in all this is more or les done and it is now up to both these agencies to fix the problem. We were relieved though to be told that there was little evidence of further water infiltration and that our bathroom ceiling was dry. We have been very impressed by the willingness of both agencies to do something…much more quickly than what we hear happens in the UK. Whether that “something“ actually gets done remains to be seen though!
As the weather has not really been tempting us to hit the beach much, we have done a lot of relaxing on the balcony where we can shelter from the wind, and pottering around in Sylvie car. Geoff took her for a much overdue service and came back a lot lighter in the wallet area, but with a grin on his face as the “garagiste” told him she was a good little car and we should hang onto her for as long as possible. We have enjoyed a couple of nice events in Frejus on Saturday mornings, the first of which was a “green” eco event with animals, vintage tractor parades (not much eco about all those diesel fumes I can tell you!) and lots of activities for children which our little one would have loved. The second one was an artistic event, with many local artists displaying their wares in the streets…which I loved. Geoff has also recommenced playing pickleball with the group of friends he likes, near here. He reports that they are more competitive that the group he plays with in Carlisle and comes back from these sessions pretty worn out! Another day, we discovered an extremely good and very large vide greniers in Roquebrune which I loved. Geoff’s face fell several miles when he saw the extent of it! It was really good and for once the prices demanded by the stall holders were not astronomical and so I came home with two lovely vases (I only wanted one of course!) as the prices were good. I have since discovered that this is a weekly event…someone here was not happy to see that!
We have also met up with some friends too. Last week we were delighted that a couple we first met when we were all house hunting in the Auvergne many years ago, came to see us whilst they were spending a few days near here. It was lovely to see them again and we spent a lovely day together…with Pierre dragging Geoff off for a swim. Pierre swims in the high-altitude lakes of the Auvergne so does not mind cold water…Geoff was not so keen but went all the same! Cally and I declined and had a walk instead! We took them to eat at our favourite bistro in Les Issambres (Bisto d’Antre potes) which was, as always, a good choice! It was though a really nice catch up for us all and we were a little surprised that the baby they had with them when we first met, is now 19 years old! Time flies eh?
We spent a lovely evening with our friend Gisele who lives in St Raphael and also enjoyed hearing all her news. These evenings are great for us all as she likes to speak English and Geoff enjoys encouraging her (and correcting her -which she asks him to do!). We were really pleased too to be able to put her in contact with one of our U3A French speaking group, who is wanting to do some French/English speaking practice via the internet. It is also interesting talking to Gisele to get the French thoughts of national news stories as well as French politics! Always a fun topic! On our way home from Gisele’s in the dark we saw a huge sanglier (wild boar) calmly crossing the road in Frejus, to reach a grassy bit of garden! Now, when we lived in the Auvergne, sangliers were often out and about but here in the middle of a town was a bit of a surprise! I thought I was seeing things!
We met another friend in Biot (another new place for us too) last week for coffee which turned into lunch as we all got on so well. Julia is a fairly recent friend of mine on Twitter…(sorry X!) and as she lives near here I had suggested we meet up! My children always tell me I shouldn’t arrange to meet up with people I befriend on the internet but don’t really know …but so far, all these tweetups have been good! Julia has lived here for a long time and it was nice to meet her and spend time with her. She had lots of good interesting insights into the area and life around here. As she has an elderly mother back in England with many health and social care problems …much the same as we went through with both our mothers …we were able to give her the benefit of many of our experiences in that field. I suspect we will repeat this meet up again as we all really enjoyed it.
As I have said above, the weather has continued to thwart many of the things we usually do here so taking little trips to nearby places has become the norm this time. We had a nice morning looking around St Raphael one day (and visiting Monoprix – always a treat for me!), and we have explored the big out-of-town commercial shopping areas a bit more too, revisiting shops like Kiabi (cheap clothes to top up our wardrobe here!) and Casa (a much beloved home living shop which I always loved in Clermont Ferrand). Apart from the prices of stuff (hugely expensive at times to our English eyes) nothing much seems to have changed. We did however discover a great new place tucked away in this area, La village des Talents Creatifs …right up my street that! It was small but really nice with little shops selling arty stuff, second hand clothes (talk about home from home there eh?) nice jewellery, arty furniture made out of driftwood, cafes, restaurants etc, etc. Lots of workshops done there too – especially for children. Most unusual of all was the discovery of a Cave sans alcohol! Now, if you had told us such a thing would ever exist in France a few years ago, we would not have believed you! As many of you will know, I have been TT all my life (I was brought up in a temperance family) and finding anything interesting to drink sans alcohol was always a struggle when we lived in France. And here was a whole shop selling alcohol free wine, fizz, beers, and aperitif drinks!!! I was in happy heaven and did stock up on a few goodies as you can imagine!
One of our other trips out one day, was to take a picnic and to explore the Massif des Maures which is a range of high ground a bit further west of here. We drove through some interesting countryside – the area is well known for its chataigne (sweet chestnut) trees…and the manufacture of Marrons Glaces, the delicacies much loved by the French especially at Christmas. We made poor Sylvie car struggle up a very steep windy road through woods with sheer drops on one side, to a well-known place, where there was a sanctuary church (dedicated to Notre Dame Des Anges – Our Lady of the Angels). I must admit I felt at times we might meet some angels a bit prematurely, on that road! It was a lovely place to picnic though when we got there, with fantastic views and a beautiful little church which is part of a small monastery with five friars in residence. It was surrounded by beautiful wild flowers, mainly wild lavender and rock roses and lots of butterflies and bees in evidence. Lovely 😊
Last weekend we decided to do one of our overnight trips in order to go and look at Cassis, which is not far from Marseille. Now those of you who have been following my blogs for a long time will know that I really dislike Marseille and have never felt safe there or thereabouts since we were once carjacked there when coming back from a cruise. However, we both wanted to see Cassis as several people had told us how nice it was. We drove there on Sunday, choosing to take the “scenic route“ and avoid the autoroute if we could. Cassis was indeed very pretty and we really enjoyed pottering around the port and eating at one of the lovely fish restaurants dotted around the harbour. We then headed off to La Ciotat (opposite direction to Marseille!) where we stayed in a quite expensive hotel…which was a bit of a disappointment if truth be told. Our room was quite small and the bathroom was tiny. The terrace was surrounded by high walls so we could not see anything from it! Also being asked to cough up almost 10 euros extra to park in the hotel car park did not endear me to this place. We often find hotels and accommodation quite expensive in the UK now but this one really made our eyes water! We really gave our BandB guests a very good deal when compared to this place! Never mind…we did enjoy a bit of a walk round the old port…but again we were not really taken with that either as one side of it (the side which does not appear in the photos) was a ship (or large yacht as it is now) building yard! The next morning we set off quite early and drove mostly along the coast all the way back to St Aygulf. We did detour a bit to climb up to a viewpoint overlooking Toulon and again to eat out picnic on the little beach we like just outside Lavandou. This beach is always very quiet when we visit and we enjoyed having a bit of a sit in the sunshine (yes I did say sunshine at last!) We both had a paddle and Geoff had a play in the sand as always! We also had the pleasure at long last of driving home after that with Sylvie car’s lid down…fantastic 😊
As many of you will know I love all things nature wise…wild flowers, animals, butterflies and birds. One of the things I have always loved about living in France is the variety of wild flowers you see here…some of which you also see in the UK but others not so much. Here in the south of France there are some stunning Mediterranean species growing in abundance on the rocks at the coast and up in the hills. Several of these plants such as the butterfly lavender & a lot of the succulents, I have paid good money for in UK garden centres and here they grow wild all over! It is also poppy time here and I love to see the roadsides and in fact often fields of beautiful red carpets of those. The butterflies here are just beginning to appear en masse too. We don’t see a vast variety of birds here at the coast …mainly seagulls, pigeons and the odd parakeet. But we have been receiving daily visits to the balcony rail of a pretty ring collared dove. But the most exciting of all at the moment are the evening ariel ballets of migrating swifts who swoop and dart about feeding on whatever insects they can catch, obviously filling up, before the next stage of their migration. We love watching them. Oh, and we seem to have a whole bunch of odd-looking birds perching on neighbour’s balcony rails just now. These are of the metal and plastic variety and are not so pleasing to the eye. In fact, the two owls with the swivelling heads on the balcony across for us are downright creepy! I keep hoping that one of the big gulls will attack them and knock them off their perches!
And so we arrive at the last day in April. May 1st is a public holiday here and I am looking forward to getting some muguet (lily of the valley) as is the tradition in France. It has been a long time since I got that as it is hard to find in the UK at this time. Geoff is also off to talk to a notaire (solicitor) today to make sure that we have all aspects of our French property covered in our new UK wills. When we did all this previously, we were full time residents in France and so we are not entirely sure what we need to change now that we live in the UK again. Then it will be time to sort out the flat for our departure next Friday. Time seems to have gone very quickly this trip…but we still have a few days left and maybe, just maybe a few swims at last if the weather stays nice. Fingers crossed!
A bientot mes amis…